Frequently asked questions.

“Dirty power” is a common term for electricity that isn’t a clean, steady 120/240 volts. It includes voltage that sags or spikes, brief surges, and electrical “noise” riding on your wiring.

Some of it comes from the utility side, such as storms, grid switching and nearby heavy equipment. A lot of it is made inside the home by LED drivers, variable-speed furnace and AC motors, appliance electronics, chargers and solar inverters. Older or loose wiring can make all of it worse.

Common symptoms include:

• Lights that flicker, dim or pulse, especially when something turns on
• LED bulbs that buzz or burn out long before they should
• Electronics, routers or smart devices that reboot or fail early
• Breakers or GFCI/AFCI outlets that trip for no clear reason
• Humming or buzzing from outlets, switches, dimmers or speakers

One sign needs attention right away: if some lights get brighter while others dim when a large appliance starts, you may have a loose neutral. That can damage equipment and create a fire risk. Call us.

Yes. We start with the most common culprits: loose or corroded connections, grounding and bonding problems, shared or overloaded circuits, and incompatible dimmers and LED bulbs. When needed, we can monitor your power over time to catch problems that come and go.

Typical fixes include repairing connections, correcting grounding, adding dedicated circuits for sensitive or heavy equipment, installing whole-home surge protection, and upgrading dimmers. If the problem is on the utility’s side, we’ll document it so you can take it to them. We focus on problems we can measure, and we won’t sell you gadgets you don’t need.

Level 1 uses a standard 120-volt outlet and the cord that comes with most EVs. It adds only about 3–5 miles of range per hour, which is fine for short commutes but slow for most drivers.

Level 2 uses a 240-volt circuit, like a dryer or range. Depending on your vehicle and charger, it typically adds about 20–40 miles of range per hour, so a full overnight charge is easy.

Often, yes. A Level 2 charger usually needs a dedicated 240-volt circuit of 40 to 60 amps. Before installing, we do a load calculation on your home to see if your existing service has room.

If it’s tight, there are options: setting the charger to a lower output, adding a load-management device that shares capacity with other appliances, or upgrading your panel or service. We’ll explain the choices and costs before any work starts.

Both work. A hardwired charger can usually deliver more power and avoids wear on an outlet from daily plugging and unplugging. A plug-in charger on a 240-volt outlet (often a NEMA 14-50) is easy to take with you if you move.

Either way, the outlet or circuit must be rated for continuous charging and have the protection current code requires. We’ll recommend the best fit for your charger and garage.

Yes, a permit is required for a new EV charger circuit. We pull the permit and schedule the inspection for you.

Utilities and vehicle makers sometimes offer rebates or discounted charging rates for home chargers. Programs change often, so check with your utility and automaker before you buy. We’ll give you the installation details and paperwork they ask for.

It’s a device installed at your electrical panel that protects every circuit in the house at once. When a surge comes in from lightning, utility switching or a downed line, it diverts the excess voltage safely to ground before it reaches your appliances.

Today’s furnaces, refrigerators, washers, TVs and garage door openers are all full of electronics, which makes them more sensitive to surges than older appliances. Current electrical code now requires a surge protector whenever a home’s service is replaced or upgraded.

For the best protection, yes. Think of it as layers. The panel unit stops large surges coming in from outside. Quality plug-in surge strips at computers, TVs and home theater equipment handle the smaller surges made inside the home.

Surges can also come in on cable, phone and internet lines, so it’s worth protecting those connections too.

Surge protectors wear down a little each time they absorb a surge. Most panel units have indicator lights that show they’re still working. Check them now and then, and especially after a big storm. If the light shows the protection is used up, have it replaced.

Consider an upgrade if your panel:

• Still uses fuses, or is a 60-amp or small 100-amp service
• Is a Federal Pacific (Stab-Lok) or Zinsco brand, which have known safety concerns
• Shows rust, scorch marks, or feels warm
• Has no room for new circuits, or relies on many tandem breakers
• Can’t support a planned EV charger, addition or new appliances

A breaker trips to protect the wiring. Common reasons include too many things on one circuit, a short circuit, a ground fault (often from moisture), or an arc fault from a damaged cord or loose connection.

Never replace a breaker with a larger one to stop the tripping. That removes the protection and can overheat the wiring. If a breaker trips repeatedly, have it checked.

Yes. We install standby generators and connect portable generators with a proper transfer switch or interlock, so you can safely power the circuits you choose during an outage.

Never plug a generator into an outlet or dryer receptacle with a “double-male” cord. It can send power back onto utility lines, endanger line workers, and start a fire.

Yes. DEBupte Electric, Inc is a licensed and insured Master Electrical Contractor (License #123456) and has been since 1984. We pull the required permits and schedule inspections, so your work is documented and done to code.

We’re based in Troy and serve homes and businesses throughout Oakland County and Southeast Michigan. Call 248-224-1303 or send us a message. We’ll talk through your project and give you a clear written estimate before any work begins.